Shed :: Siding and Paint-splosion. (Part 5)

To read more about the whacky adventures in shed building click here to see all posts, or start at the beginning.

Before I get to the paint-astrophe (paint-maggedon?), let’s start off by getting these bones covered up, shall we?

Shed with back sided

I had originally planned to use a local lumber mill to get the siding but failed to realize how much lead time they would need. Instead I was left scrambling the day before I planned to start trying to track down some shiplap siding.

Thankfully Home Depot stocks 1×8 shiplap, which is one side roughcut and one side v-groove. I ordered online and BAM, it was picked and waiting for me an hour or so later. While not as convenient as getting it delivered, I really love the whole ordering it online and not spending time picking through boards at the store.

Vertical ship lap siding on shed from Home Depot

I had originally thought that putting 1×3 or 1×4 strapping horizontally would be the way to go for siding. Something about air-flow, or … honestly, I have no idea how I talked myself into this idea. But somehow I managed to put strapping all up before I thought to look at wood siding nails. The shortest nails I could find were 2″, which would have meant 1/4″ spikes of scratchy pain sticking into my shed everywhere (through the 3/4″ siding and 3/4″ strapping). And so, I took it all off. It’s always miserable to have to undo or redo steps during a project, but thankfully it went fairly quickly. And soon I had this:

Shed and chicken coop sided in shiplap rough cut

Coop window frame detail

Front of shed sided

And then I thought it would be a good idea to start getting paint samples for the interior and figuring out the interior door colors. I was settled on the outside colors, but wanted to test out some light grays for the inside.

Getting far ahead of myself again I decided to grab the paint for the interior of the doors. Staying with my usual theme, and not having Shannon’s input to push me into something more colorful, I picked a gray. I did at least consult a trusted female advisor though. Martha helped me choose Bedford Gray which was a darker putty gray that has lots of brown (I think?) so as to hopefully go well with the BM Titanium that will eventually cover the walls.

I should note this paint was meant for the inside of the shed, not the inside of my car. So here’s my #neveragain, make sure the lid is on your paint securely when you leave the store.

Boom paint leak in car trunk

Apparently the paint guy (who I overheard talking about how he’s normally in flooring.. heh) didn’t put the lid on tight. Thankfully it was in my trunk, and I have a trunk liner, and Home Depot customer service was great. The store manager? Not so helpful, but the corporate customer service people and their insurance agency were efficient, helpful and got me all fixed up. It was still a rough start to my painting adventures though. On the bright side, I do like the color … just not for the back of my car.

I’m also psyched to write-up why those big ol’ galvanized half-pipes are currently creating a cozy paint-filled nest for my tools.

Shed :: Deck. The Walls. With A Stupid Folly. (Part 3)

To read more about the whacky adventures in shed building click here to see all posts, or start at the beginning.

I’m inordinately proud of this post title, and I’m also months behind in writing up the shed progress since I did most of this work in the spring and it is now decidedly the season of firewood, falling leaves and pumpkin flavored … anything. And as much as I love getting outdoor projects done in the spring and summer it feels like I have no desire to write about them during that time. Oh well, past tense shed work it is.

Once the foundation was put together and filled oh so nicely with gravel I was ready to get my first big delivery of lumber. I needed the pressure treated 4×6 skids, the pressure treated 2×6 floor joists and 150+ 2x4s. I had it delivered from our local lumber yard, and that extra $25 was seriously some of the best money spent on this project. Delivered lumber instead of multiple trips in my non-truck (the Outback gets plenty of chances to haul materials as it is) made this so much simpler, plus with 14′ rim joists, 16′ ridge beams and a couple of 12′ pieces that would be cut in half for the 6′ wide coop section I was more than happy to not haul them.

The #neveragain part of this project started right about here. I laid out my 4×6 pressure treated runners, 3 for the main shed, 2 for the coop side. I assembled the deck structure of 2×6’s with joist hangers and set aside a full day to cut and lay the 3/4 Advantech tongue and groove plywood subfloor / decking. Before I even got outside to lay the first sheet the weather was already starting to mutiny. Rain was seriously on the way and if the decking got wet, it would be days for it to dry out enough to glue down the sheets like I wanted to. Since my dad was already lined up to help me, I just threw caution (and my checklist) to the wind and started right in. We got barely two sheets in before I had the horrible realization that I had never squared up the deck before I started. It was already glued and screwed down and in the rush to beat the weather and the frustration with my mistake I gave up with four miserable words: “It’s just a shed.”

Now that I’m on the other side of the project, knowing that the out of square foundation, walls and roof worked out, I’m okay with it, but it stressed me out throughout the project that I had missed a key step and worse plowed through my one shot at fixing it. Particularly when it rained for 3 weeks straight (nearly) after I got the decking on so I got to watch my out of square, slightly gapped, glued and screwed (not going anywhere) deck get soaked and turn nice and gray.

Shed deck with coop walls framed

Once the weather lifted, I hastily finalized my framing plan on a few loose sheets of paper and went about marking layouts and cutting while my dad nailed walls together. Sidebar: my dad is now 70 and this summer was the first time in my life that I can ever remember out-working him. I’m always impressed by how hard both my parents work and their generosity in helping others and giving to others. I really hope to have inherited even a fraction of those attributes from both of them.

These two images were after the first day of framing with my dad. Sadly his hands were bothering him and since I didn’t have a framing nail gun and he was nailing by hand, he called it a day. Not bad progress though to have 4 walls of the coop up and plumbed.

Shed deck with coop walls framed

From there I started framing by myself. I framed the longer 14′ sections in two 10′ and 4′ sections, attaching with a double top plate once they were standing. Sadly I don’t have any photos of the deadman contraptions (deadmen?) that I used to put the ridge beam in place. I was rather proud of putting up a 16′ ridge beam and all the rafters by myself. I used an awesome online rafter calculator that gave me all the measurements based on the span, rise, run and thickness of the rafters.

Shed rough framing, 2x4 rafters

Now that I had walls and rafters it was time to consider how to top this thing off. I am not bad with heights per say, but I don’t love them. I especially don’t love being attacked by inanimate objects while up high on something that is swaying every time I move. But that’s a story for next time.

Beams o’ Light Install

Let’s start with the bad. This is the type of “never again shall we speak of this” type of lesson that I like to share (once) and then move on from never to repeat again. I knew when I was picking out the lights and doing my test fittings that the amount of wire poking out was less than ideal. I planned to get around this by wiring the lights on the ground before I put the beam up and possibly pigtailing in extensions if I had to. Here’s what I had to work with:

Little wires

Do you see them? That 1-2 inches of wire coming out the back there? Yes, I thought that would be okay. I thought I could wire nut those to the supply lines. I was wrong.

I struggled with it for much longer than I care to admit, but in the end decided I had to shorten the stem of the lights. Now I could have been patient and replace the 3″ pipe extensions with 1″ ones, but that would mean a trip to the store, many coats of spray paint and most importantly peeling off the worst label stickers known to man. I think it took me an hour to get the first set of four peeled off entirely and cleaned up. So, since I had full executive design control on the project, I made a switch.

The lights went from looking like this:Lights with extensions

To looking more like … well, we’ll get to that in a second. Suffice to say, I pulled off the extensions and hooked the lights directly to the plates that connected to the beam.

In order to install the beam I added some bracing under the existing LVL, screwing them up with Scorpion screws. Side note: I love Scorpion screws and use them everywhere. I’m irrationally smitten with them.  They rarely strip or bend or do anything other than drive straight and hold tight. Yay screws.
Bracing for attaching lower beam

Since I was doing the install myself I used a bunch of clamps to hold the board up while I glued and nailed in other parts. It worked surprising well, both on the bottom and later again on the face. So let’s throw in a another Yay for clamps. Yay clamps.

Bracing for attaching lower beam

I had also already added the support strips that I would nail the face to in addition to nailing it to the bottom beam and to the supports on the bottom as well. I wired up a nice long tail for the connection to the existing ceiling bulb and them clamped up the face beam. Originally I was going to put the two beam pieces together in order to get the tightest seam I could, but during the first test fit of the length of the bottom piece I quickly realized just how hard it was to maneuver the individual pieces in the narrow pantry, let alone trying to do it once they were together.

So here it is with the shortened lights, all nailed up.
Bracing for attaching lower beam

I had really hoped that I could get rid of the ceiling light altogether, but the light is too directed and isn’t going to cut it. But oh well, now it just means I get to plan something interesting for the ceiling light too. Here’s the pantry with just the beam lights on.

Bracing for attaching lower beam

I’m actually very happy with how the seam came out on the bottom. I had originally planned to build the beam as one piece and then install it together but it was hard enough to maneuver the individual boards in the tight space of the pantry, I didn’t want to smash up the walls or the beam by doing it in one piece.

Bracing for attaching lower beam

So thankfully the only “never again” part of this was trying to wire lights up with too short of leads when I KNOW they are too short and shouldn’t have even bothered trying in the first place.

This means I can cross the beam off my project list for the pantry and move on to maybe a door? Or trimming out the lolly column?