Shed :: Roofs, Raised and Otherwise. (Part 4)

To read more about the whacky adventures in shed building click here to see all posts, or start at the beginning.

Having gotten the framing done and the rafters up I was feeling pretty good about the shed so far. I used 2×4 rafters, because as you will see in a second I also used 2×4 purlins between the rafters and the metal roof. Here are the purlins up on the coop part of the shed.

2x4 rafters with 2x4 perlings on coop part of shed

And here is the coop side close up with a bunch of strapping on the walls. Ugh. Strapping that I thought I wanted and spent far too long placing it all over the shed only to later rip it off once I realized the actual size of siding nails (SPOILER: Longer than I thought) and the actual requirements for spacing of nails on shiplap siding (SPOILER: it is a lot less than the 24″ o/c I had placed the strapping).

2x4 purlins and useless strapping

As I was putting on the purlins, I was starting to have some serious doubts about my ability to roof this beast. Particularly my ability to do it solo. There was bracing for the walls but the amount of sway in involved at the peak of the main roof was not endearing to my internal organs. I actually started to ask around to see if I could get my favorite handyman to roof it for me. Then I decided I could at least do the coop roof.

New coop with roof on

Thankfully it went really smoothly once I got the hang of it and it built up my confidence. I made custom blocking jigs to screw into the rafters so that the panels rested where they needed to be. Once the first piece was set by the blocking on the gable and overhang, setting the next pieces was straight forward since you just had to align the seams. Here you can see the blocking attached to the end of the rafters to let the panels rest while I screwed them in.

Half the metal roof up on the shed

I bought my metal roofing at Lowes (just their in-stock galvanized metal roofing) and since I planned on cutting some twelve footers in half for the coop and knew I would have to trim the 3′ panels for a 16′ roof, I bought an electric metal shear. I ended up buying this guy from Harbor Freight. I knew I wanted the tool for this job but I wasn’t sure how much I would really use it long term, so I felt fine going with Harbor Freight here. They worked great for the few cuts I had to make and I’m really glad I spent the money instead of manually snipping 8′ rip cuts.

And on the whacky adventure side: So ripstop pants? Yea, no match for metal roofing when you are straddling the ridge and scooting along. And my boxers and legs didn’t fair much any better but thankfully there are no NSFW photos to prove it. I don’t know if you can tell from the photo but the entire bum / leg on these pants was torn to shreds from my ridge cap adventure.

Rip stop pants, ripped to shreds by metal roof

I also had decided to leave the roof panels off the overhang between the shed and the coop in order to be able to use the cross supports to climb to the ridge to attach the ridge cap. In theory this was a good idea to allow for easy movement. In reality it was just a pain in the butt to try and put those panels in after the ridgecap was mostly attached and then have to get back up on the ridge cap (sliding along, gripping with my legs, ripping my pants some more, scratching up my legs, again, etc.) to finish attaching it to these last two panels.

Getting the roof and ridge cap on again felt like a great milestone to pass with this shed. By this point it was July and I knew I still had a lot of work cut out for me. I don’t have a great shot of the roof finished, but here is one later in the process once I had a few walls already sided.

Back and Coop sided, metal roof finished with ridge cap

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One thought on “Shed :: Roofs, Raised and Otherwise. (Part 4)

  1. I’m looking to build a shed to put 2, 4 wheelers, lawn mower power splitter and such. Also want an over hang to store wood out of the weather. Can you help?

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